The Enchanting French City with Giant Minotaurs

Toulouse, the "pink city," built of rose-hued bricks, the heart of today’s Occitanie, was once home to ancient Romans and later to heretics, crusaders, counts, and merchants. The University of Toulouse is partly responsible for the city’s young and vibrant feeling, yet the city is rich with history. It sits on the path to the Pyrenees and Spain, and has seen its share of refugees over the centuries, many of whom fled persecution from the Inquisition and Franco’s Spain, and they’ve left their mark on the city’s cosmopolitan character and culture.

There’s more than enough to do and to see, to eat and to drink, but it’s also worth just taking time and sitting in a café on the Place du Capitole or along the banks of the Canal du Midi, watching the light change and the people go by.

7 hours non-stop from Montreal via Air Canada
4 hours from Paris via TGV train

Experience the machine world of La Halle de la Machine, a living theatre of man-made mechanisms brought to life daily by actors/guides and by you. A giant spider stalks the huge, hanger-like hall, her head turning and her legs moving rhythmically with each purposeful step, manipulated by hidden human drivers. Towering machines made of recycled bicycles, xylophones, and antiquated tractor parts shoot flames skyward or shower you with snowflakes at the pull of a lever or the push of a button. A troupe of veritable Mécaniques, actors garbed in bright orange mechanic’s suits, appear from the sidelines to suddenly climb a metal ladder to reach a wheel of spinning guitars, or suspended washboards and kitchen spoons to play a fantastical harmony. Next they might appear by your side, lining you up to mount the back of the gigantic, fifty-foot foot tall Minotaur for a stroll along the historic runway in front of the hall. Petite Mécanique Patricia Peguin, her orange hair fluffing out above a black head band, responds to a visitor’s question.

“Why did you want to work here if you are an actor?" She laughs. “So I could drive Le Minotaure.” She throws her arm toward the towering creature next to her. “But not today!” she says, setting off across the hall to show a group of people how to fling a heavy, 19th century clothes’ iron along rails to light up the propane jets on a bell-topped edifice of oddly welded bits and pieces of metal.

The wild creations at La Halle, which belong to the Companie La Machine and Francois Delaroziere, its creator, are stored here when they are not called upon to perform in the streets and cities of the world, including Toulouse.

The old city has everything. The centrally located Place du Capitole, considered one of the most beautiful squares in France, if not in Europe, is framed by elegant 18th and 19th century buildings dominated by the 12th century tower of its town hall. Leading off from the square are narrow streets that, depending on the direction you choose, will take you to the Basilique Saint Servian, a Romanesque church where construction started in 1080, or to the Fondation Berget, Toulouse’s most famous art museum, originally a private collection, with an impressive array of impressionist paintings and Old Masters housed in a 16th century palace. The small streets are lined with boutiques, and each turn will lead to a new discovery. Be sure to find your way to the edges of the Old City, bounded by the Garonne River on one side and the Canal du Midi, both pedestrian friendly for strolling.

For food discovery, a must go, first stop, is the historic, centrally located Victor Hugo market, where whole Jamon Iberica’s hang from the rafters, brightly lit patisserie windows gleam next to stalls heaped with cheeses, and you can find almost everything edible imaginable. You can sign up for a Taste of Toulouse with Jessica Hammer, who will introduce you to her favorite vendors and, at the conclusion, regale you with a feast of bread, charcuterie, cheese, pastries, and fruit, all purchased during the tour. She spreads it out for you on barrel tops at the Chai Vincent wine bar, pairing the food with a selection of different wines. Or, feel free to wander, shop and drink on your own. Vendors are friendly, and it’s a visual as well as a virtual feast. On the first floor, above the market is an array of brasseries, popular with locals, if you want to enjoy the flavors of the market, but have someone cook them for you.

The Canal du Midi begins in Toulouse, where its green banks are dotted with geranium potted, lace-curtained barges moored here and there. Trees spread along the canal’s edge, providing shade for picnickers and strollers. Now a UNESCO World Heritage site, the canal was built in the 17th century, connecting Toulouse to Sete, on the Mediterranean, X kilometers away. Pick up some meats and cheeses, a bottle of wine or cider at the Victor Hugo market (it closes at noon) and join the picnickers along the bank. Take note: Should you return to Toulouse on a longer trip, and you’d like to be the captain of your own boat on the canal, Le Boat, located at the docks Castelnaudary, will rent you a craft, no license needed.

Woad is a blue dye made from the pastel plant, and the manufacturing and selling of it made the merchants of Toulouse rich in the 18th century. An almost-lost art, woad production has been brought back to life by master craftsman, Annette Hardouin, who is carrying on the traditional techniques. At her shop, AHPY, you can book a class and do some dying yourself, as well as browse the woad-dyed garments and accessories.

The Toulouse club, nicknamed Les Rouge et Noir, is considered one of the best clubs in Europe, and the people of Toulouse are huge fans. The Stadium de Toulouse is readily accessible by tram, bus, or subway. Tickets can be purchased from on-line sellers like Ticketmaster or at the stadium.

A little over an hour by train or car, looms the walled city of Carcassonne , a 13th century medieval fortress built on what was once the border of France and Spain. From its ramparts the defenders could see as far as the Pyrenees and to any exposed enemy coming across the plains below. The walls and the city were completely restored between 1853 and 1879 by the French architect Eugène Viollet-le-Duc. At first glance it feels a lot like Disneyland without Mickey and the princesses. The main street is lined with the usual souvenir shops selling swords and shields, postcards, candy, and handicrafts, but venture into the narrow side streets or onto the ramparts and it’s like you've taken a step back in time.

It’s easy to imagine knights charging each other on the jousting grounds, with the crowds cheering them on. Or to imagine the streets bustling not with tourists, but with vendors selling everything from live chickens to vats of wine and sheepskins.

For a special lunch, head to La Barbacane, a Michelin-starred restaurant in the heart of the medieval city. All stone, polished dark wood, diamond-paned windows, and soft light, it feels like a fine restaurant in a medieval city should feel. The food, though, is distinctly contemporary, locally sourced, the wine list is extensive, and the lunch price reasonable for a luxury experience.

For a different experience, still within the medieval walls, sit down at a red and white checkered cloth covered table at one of the outdoor cafes, order a glass of beer or wine, a salad or maybe steak frites, and settle in.

You’re in the right place for eating and drinking, pretty much anywhere you turn. The city is famous for its food, notably foie gras, all things duck, and the eponymous dish of slow-cooked beans, duck, and Toulouse sausage, called Cassoulet, said to have originated in Toulouse. Desserts are dreamy and you can never have too much cheese and jambon. The proximity of Spain provides an Iberian flair to the offerings.

For Cassoulet, head to Emile’s in the heart of the Old City. Founded in the 1940s Emile’s calls itself the home of cassoulet In classic fashion, it comes in an individual terracotta pot, a cassole, heaping with savory beans, and the essential meaty bits. The cassoulet presentation at La Gourmandine, a sleek, modern restaurant, is similar, but the menu also boasts creative contemporary dishes like grilled artichoke salad, house smoked trout from the Pyrenees, and wild cod with black rice and chorizo, plus creative vegetarian options.

A small restaurant conveniently located just steps away from the Novotel on the crescent of Place Thomas Wilson, Le Bon Vivre has been attracting fans to the family -owned and operated restaurant for decades. Grilled Sausage, homemade seasonal soup, charcuterie and cheeses, and a dessert menu as long as the entrée and main dish menu. It gets crowded quickly, so get there early or reserve.

For a not- to- be- found- anywhere- else lunch experience, book a place at the Halle de la Machine Le Diner des Petites Mécaniques. It’s lunch for twenty-four people, seated at long tables draped in white, roped off the make a private space in the massive hall. There, surrounded by the exotica of throwing mechanisms and wandering machine-creatures, you’ll enjoy a 5-course meal with wine and coffee, served by the Veritable Mécaniques, but also by quirky machines that deliver wine and platters of food—which, by the way, is quite good. Reserve well in advance. Saturdays and Sundays only. This is a popular place.

Café life in Toulouse is animated by the high student population, and pubs and cafes are everywhere. Especially popular is the Place du Capitole, the large city hall square surrounded by restaurants and cafes with outdoor terraces. For a taste of local production, try wine from the Fronton Appellation, from Gascony or ask for an Armagnac. To be really local, ask for a Floc, or Floc de Gascogne, which is a sweet aperitif wine, made with young Armagnac and fresh grape juice using a recipe dating from the 16th century.

The Melting Pot Pub: A centrally located drinks and eats hangout for rugby and other sports fans.

Le Quinquina Bar: One of the oldest drinking establishments in Toulouse, it’s a popular gay bar, centrally located, with heavily patinaed murals that are famous in the art world. It serves its namesake aperitif from wooden barrels, but also serves cocktails, wine, beer, and food. Dark and very atmospheric, with occasional live music.

Papilles Cocktails: Papilles sells the bottled cocktail creations (and glasses) developed by Master Barman of France, Alexis Taoufiq. Friendly and fun, it draws a good crowd. Try the rum-based Jungle Bird or Peche au Dragon, made with French gin, to start.

Toulouse has a large number of hotels of all prices and types. The accommodations listed below are all centrally located and convenient to metros and buses.

Hotel de Beaux Arts:This hotel is on the inner edge of the Old Town, overlooking the Garonne River and the Pont Neuf. The rooms are dramatically decorated with modern art murals and tableaux, and the friendly neighborhood is full of shops, cafes, and restaurants.

Ours Blanc Hotels:This small group of three hotels, all near the Victor Hugo market, include Hotel Ours Blanc Wilson, with a spa and rooftop bar, Hotel Ours Blanc Centre, a corner building with large bay windows, and a modest Ours Blanc Victor Hugo just opposite the Victor Hugo market.

Novotel Toulouse Centre Wilson:Its decorative brick façade overlooking the Place Wilson, belies the hotel’s modern interior, replete with a brasserie and bar. From here, it is just a few steps into the narrow streets of the Old City.