Inside the Most Extravagant Labor Day Party in the U.S.
Dolly Parton drag, a daddy-themed party, and more ways to celebrate.
Hedonism. Overindulgence. Debauchery. Each of these words perfectly describes New Orleans’ biggest LGBTQ+ event of the year, but Southern Decadence rolls off the tongue a little better than the Deep South Festival of Queer Inhibition.
To adequately mark the end of summer from August 29 to September 2, flamboyantly dressed (or scantily clad) queer people and our allies dance in the streets and infuse the city with an energy that we can only describe from experience as unbridled joy. In peak years, crowds have swelled to 300,000 revelers, beating out some Mardi Gras crowds. Though, appropriately enough, many people call Southern Decadence “Gay Mardi Gras.” This shorthand term quickly captures the essence of the five-day party over Labor Day Weekend without having to go into any more detail.
A lot has changed since the queer gathering first began in 1972. Founded by a close-knit group who referred to themselves as the “Decadents,” it started with only about 50 costumed friends in attendance, many partaking in booze and drugs to live up to their namesake reputation. The party set the stage for an enduring legacy embraced by free-spirited folks worldwide, and one year later, the Decadents threw another party the Sunday before Labor Day and sashayed through the streets of the French Quarter in what would become the first-ever Southern Decadence Parade, now the beloved cultural centerpiece of the weekend.
By 1974, the first Grand Marshal was in place, and another tradition was born. In recent years, Grand Marshals have picked a theme, colors, song, and charity beneficiary for the weekend. This year’s Grand Marshals are Vanessa Carr Kennedy, Paribe Meyer, and Jeffrey Mayeaux and the group selected “Birds of a Feather” for the theme with Billie Eilish’s single of the same name as the official tune. The color scheme is 50 Shades of Blue, Pink, and Gold. New Orleans Advocates for GLBT Elders (NOAGE) will receive proceeds from the event’s fundraising.
“It's an experience like no other. Through fundraising and celebrating, we’re building bonds and friendships that will last a lifetime,” says Mayeux. “It's one of the sixth largest events that New Orleans hosts annually. Right now we have 54 marching groups with over 2,000 people participating in the parade at this point.”
“It has turned into a five-day, non-stop LGBTQ+ holiday of events that range the gamut from dance parties and drag shows to leather contests and naughty private events,” says Tony Leggio, a local who served as Southern Decadence Grand Marshal XLII (42) and continues to host and produce Southern Decadence events each year.
He points out that Decadence differs from Pride events because it’s unapologetically adults-only. And though a majority of partiers identify as gay men, every LGBTQ+ person and ally will find numerous ways to let their freak flags fly. “It is our city and community's decadence that makes New Orleans special, and this holiday illuminates that,” Leggio says.
Most importantly, it’s the idealization of individuality. “It's about being yourself,” Mayeux says. “It's in the middle of the summer when it's hot, and people get to express themselves by wearing whatever they want. Or as little as they want.”
Throughout the French Quarter, bars and restaurants host events and welcome the crowds to their air-conditioned spaces. But at its core, Southern Decadence remains a massive street party with an ever-morphing landscape of colorful people united around a soundtrack of queer anthems.
How to Celebrate Southern Decadence in New Orleans:
Visit the best LGBTQ+ bars in the city
For a city of fewer than 400,000 people, New Orleans has more than a dozen wildly fun queer bars, mainly located in the French Quarter. At the heart of the Bourbon Street intersection that marks the beginning of an unofficial gay district, Bourbon Pub & Parade and Oz each host separate Southern Decadence events with all-access weekend pass options. Elsewhere in the Quarter, every queer person, as a right of passage, simply must visit Lafitte’s (also known as Café Lafitte in Exile), the oldest continuously operating gay bar in the US. Golden Lantern serves as the kickoff point for the Southern Decadence Parade, The Corner Pocket ramps up the decadent vibe with underwear-clad male dancers, and Good Friends Bar turns from a low-key hang to an exuberant party inside and out.
August 29,$75 and up
Generations Hall in the Warehouse Arts District will host RuPaul’s Drag Race legend, Jujubee, for a fundraising drag extravaganza with several local queens, including Debbie with a D and Laveau Contraire. Proceeds from the event go toward increased cancer screenings, lodging, and transportation assistance for LGBTQ+ cancer patients.
August 30, $20 (includes one complimentary cocktail)
Not only does Virgin Hotels New Orleans make a great place to stay year-round because of its LGBTQ+ inclusivity, but the team there has put together a weekend-long roster of fun, starting with this poolside party. Get a taste of one of NOLA’s other significant queer events, HNO, then plan your return for Halloween.
August 31, $40
The Commons Club Bar & Restaurant will host a Dolly Parton-themed drag brunch with a two-course meal included in the price during the weekend of Southern Decadence. Bring your cash tips, honey, and your thirst because you can also upgrade to bottomless Veuve Clicquot champagne for only $79.
August 31, $45 and up
Underground disco and classics pair with the sexy energy of Decadence to welcome Horse Meet Disco, Honcho, and an exceptional surprise performance you have to see to believe at the Fillmore New Orleans.
August 31, $15 and up
Never underestimate the power of a women’s party at Southern Decadence. Dance the night away to music from multiple DJs and performers, marvel at burlesque dancers, and splurge for VIP access that gets you a private viewing balcony, bar, and—perhaps best of all—VIP-only restroom.
August 31, $20 and up
A little off the beaten path of the French Quarter, The AllWays Lounge & Cabaret is hosting a handful of Southern Decadence events. But this celebration of older men epitomizes the alternative scheduling where the venue thrives, which this weekend also includes drag kings, lesbian burlesque, Broadway show tunes, and a Rocky Horror-themed striptease show.
August 31, $79 and up
All aboard the Creole Queen for a bunch of other queens. Hosted by Eureka Starfish, this monthly drag brunch gets a Decadence guest-list boost. Enjoy a breakfast buffet, and add on bottomless cheap-bubbly mimosas for only $15 more.
August 31, $75
The Elysian Bar’s first-ever Southern Decadence event brings out Laveau Contraire to host the festivities, along with several of NOLA’s other top queens: Virginia SlimJim, Otto Von Blotto, and Lexis Redd D'Ville. Tickets to either of the two shows include a three-course brunch with beverage pairings.
September 1, Free
For many partygoers, the highlight of Southern Decadence will always be the Sunday afternoon parade. It starts at the Golden Lantern and works its way to Bourbon Street. Watch from the sidelines, or jump into the line and march, cheer, sing, and dance your way to the next destination.
September 1, Ticket prices vary
The Pool Club at Virgin Hotels New Orleans opens to non-hotel guests for a day of fun in the sun. It’s free to hang out, or $60 if you wanna get wet and beat the heat. Show up before or after the parade, or stay the entire time.
September 2, $25 and up
RuPaul queen Symone will headline a tea dance filled with music, burlesque, and drag at the Pool Club atop the Virgin Hotels New Orleans. A pop-up shop, silent charity auction, meet-and-greet with Symone, and tantalizing cocktails await, making a perfect way to cap off Decadence Weekend.