Three Days in Fukuoka, the Japanese City Free of Tourist Traps

When travelers book a trip to Japan, the cities of Kyoto and Tokyo are at the top of the list. But when the Japanese are craving a city getaway, they head south to Fukuoka. Nestled between the mountains and the sea on the island of Kyushu, Fukuoka has a rich 2,000-year-old history as a gateway city to Asia. Today, it plays a similar role as it attracts start-ups and tech companies from around the world. “Fukuoka strikes a perfect balance between being an important economic and cultural hub in Japan, while still offering a relaxed, high-quality urban lifestyle,” explains Nick Szasz, editor and publisher of Fukuoka Now, and a Fukuoka resident since 1990.

Despite being Japan’s sixth largest city, it doesn’t carry the same air of stress you might find in Tokyo, thanks in part to its proximity to nature. Beach swimming and mountain hiking are within an hour by car while the city itself boasts several parks filled with tranquil ponds and manicured gardens. Adding to Fukuoka’s peaceful air are its many ancient shrines and temples, which remain centers of spirituality for residents today.

Fukuoka’s relaxed nature may explain why it often ranks highly in the nation’s happiness rankings. “The people are generally open to new things, friendly, and warm-hearted, making it easy for newcomers to feel at home quickly,” explains local DJ and web designer Hisato Fukuyama, who has lived in Fukuoka for 46 years. “I have found that people in Fukuoka tend to be friendlier, and more used to welcoming tourists,” adds Simon Metcalfe, a manager at the Kyushu Tourism Organization. “It is nice to feel welcomed and to be able to fit in as opposed to standing out as an outsider.”

Unlike the two-plus-hour airport commute you can expect in Tokyo, the Fukuoka airport is only 15 minutes away from the city center by subway. And that might be the only time you take the subway—Fukuoka is impressively compact and walkable. In a single day, you can wander the ruins of a 400-year-old castle under the cherry blossoms, shop retro Japanese vintage in trendy Imaizumi, and rub elbows with locals at the historic yatai food stalls serving steaming hot tonkotsu ramen, all by foot. The city offers as much variety in cuisine, culture and shopping as Tokyo, but without the crowds, high costs and cold temperatures in the winter. “It’s an ideal city for those who’ve already seen the major spots and want something different—more authentic and closer to everyday Japan, away from the typical tourist paths,” explains Szasz. “Tokyo is a must for first-time visitors, but Fukuoka and Kyushu are Japan’s next frontier.”

See: The mystical beauty of Ikinomatsubara Pine Forest. For a nature reprieve from the rapidly growing metropolis, visitors and locals alike flock to Ohori Park, what is known as Fukuoka’s Central Park. But those in the know venture a bit further to Ikinomatsubara, a forest located within Genkai Quasi-National Park. The coastal pine forest has become a popular oceanside driving route and beach swimming destination in recent years but it’s been the subject of songs and poems for centuries. Don’t miss the Genkō Bōrui stone wall that runs through the forest. According to Szasz, the wall was built to defend Fukuoka against the Mongol invasion in 1274 and played a key role in repelling a 140,000-strong army, changing Japan’s history forever.

Touch: Arita porcelain. In a country where pottery is a revered art form, in Fukuoka, arguably no ceramics are more coveted than Arita ware. Named after the nearby pottery town of Arita where it is believed to have originated in the 16th century, the prized Japanese pottery is one of the country’s first forms of porcelain. While Arita ware reached its peak popularity in the latter half of the 17th century when it was in high demand in Europe, it continues to attract ceramic enthusiasts to the town of Arita today. Head to Arita Será, one of the world’s largest Arita shopping malls which boasts 22 ceramic specialty stores. Or, if you can’t afford the 1.5-hour drive to Arita town, check out Arita Porcelain Labin Fukuoka to witness skilled Arita artisans using techniques passed down through generations.

Smell: Plum blossoms in bloom. Cherry blossoms are one of Japan’s main tourism draws in the spring, but locals in Fukuoka are perhaps even more fond of plum (ume) blossoms. Arriving in Fukuoka in January, ahead of the cherry blossom season which begins in late March, they put locals in a good mood as they mark the end of winter and first sign of spring. Reaching their peak through the month of February, the best place to smell the plum blossoms is Maizuru Park, where you can find 250 diverse varieties surrounding Fukuoka Castle.

Hear: Live music. Beyond the ambient sounds of this growing city you’ll find a rich music scene that offers something for everyone. Since 1953, Kyushu Symphony Orchestra has been delighting classical music lovers, playing over 130 concerts a year. The city hosts several music festivals throughout the year—two of the most popular are Music City Tenjin and Nakasu Jazz which both take place in September. But the best listening is low-key, found in jazz cafes like Jazz & Café Backstage, one of Fukuoka’s original jazz bars that showcases Kyushu musicians nightly.

Taste: Yatai food stalls. No visit to Fukuoka is complete without experiencing the intimate, open-air food stalls known as yatais. “These food stalls existed throughout the country after World War II, but are now rarely seen in other parts of the country,” says Manami Ofuchi, a local tour guide who was born-and-raised in Fukuoka. “Unlike many other Japanese cities, Fukuoka’s yatai are still a central part of its food culture, providing fresh, affordable dishes in a lively, communal setting,” adds Metcalfe. Go right when they open at 6 pm since each stall typically has no more than 10 seats and don’t try to share dishes—they prefer guests order at least one dish per person.

Fukuoka’s seaside location and warm climate produce a diverse bounty of fresh ingredients that lends itself to a rich food culture. It’s a city where you can sample traditional specialities like motsunabe (intestines stew) and goma-saba (mackerel sashimi in sesame sauce) at an inexpensive yatai one night and have an elaborate 16-course kaiseki dinner at a Michelin-starred restaurant the next. From savoring the melt-in-your-mouth texture of Kuroge wagyu beef (black Japanese cattle) to slurping noodles at a restaurant nicknamed the “Noodle Theater” for its stadium-style seating arrangement, eating in Fukuoka is a journey for the senses and full of surprises.

It’s not just the verdant terroir that supports Fukuoka’s thriving food scene, it’s the people, who have upheld a deep reverence for local ingredients for centuries. “The people of Fukuoka take pride in their food, valuing local products and traditional cooking methods,” explains Hisato Fukuyama. It’s why Fukuoka inventions like Hakata ramen (Tonkotsu ramen)—originally a convenience meal served to Hakata port laborers and fishermen in the early 20th century—continue to be some of the most popular dishes today. This single dish is found at intimate street food stalls, the flagship locations of international chains like Ippudo or Ichiran, and the “Ramen Runway” on the third floor of the Fukuoka Airport. It’s this vast range of dining experiences that makes Fukuoka a dream destination for food lovers.

10 am – Savor pastries and a pick-me-up at & Locals. Despite Fukuoka residents’ reverence for tea, it’s difficult to find a matcha latte in the city. One of the best is at this café-meets-grocery store in Ohori Park. Dedicated to showcasing Kyushu products, it’s best known for its drinks made with Yame tea, sourced from Fukuoka prefecture. One of these drinks–the Yame ensemble brew–blends Yame-grown matcha with black tea, hojicha, and locally produced brown rice. Savor your drink with a set breakfast and one of the spot’s enticing treats overlooking the pond. Don’t miss the locally made condiments, snacks, and teas sold in the café’s shopping section on the first floor.

12 pm – Enjoy a lavish kaiseki at Genjyu. If you’ve experienced a tasting menu in the West, you’ve likely been exposed to the Japanese tradition of kaiseki, as it was the source of inspiration for the French menu degustation that would become the template for fine dining in North America. The Japanese meal containing several courses of small plates was originally reserved for Japanese nobility. Today, it remains one of the most lavish dining experiences you can have in Japan. While there are several fine dining restaurants offering kaiseki in Fukuoka, head to Genjyu for panoramic views from the 24th floor and locally sourced dishes that are as pleasing to the palate as they are to the eye. Don’t skip the kuroge wagyu, a local delicacy that holds the highest A5 beef ranking for its exquisite marbling and sumptuous texture.

3 pm – Experience a traditional tea ceremony made modern. The island of Kyushu is known for its variety of green teas—like sencha, gyokuro and bancha—so tea-tasting is a must. For a modern twist on the traditional art, Nick Szasz recommends Saryo Yamashina, which curates some of the finest quality teas from the region. Guests can expect innovative tea presentations coupled with indulgent handcrafted desserts like yokan (a jelly dessert) infused with local watermelon and sencha.

5 pm – Reignite your appetite at the Tonkotsu Ramen Museum. After a day full of eating, whet your appetite for the evening ahead with a visit to the Tonkotsu Ramen Museum. The Fukuoka-based ramen chain Ichiran produces a staggering 90,000 bowls of noodles, and you can observe some of the process yourself at their manufacturing factory located a 40-minute drive from downtown. The kid-friendly museum traces the history of Tonkotsu ramen from its origins in Fukuoka and includes fun displays like a ramen map of the country. The onsite restaurant serves their original tonkotsu ramen but also has a weekly-rotating menu of new flavors to try. Too full to eat? Check out the gift shop to bring some packages of ramen and soup home with you.

7 pm – Take yourself on a “hashigo” food tour. “Fukuoka locals love ‘hashigo,’ a style of dining that involves hopping between two or three (or more!) spots in one night,” explains Szasz. The long-time resident recommends beginning with small bites like gyoza (paired with a refreshing glass of beer) at Las Vegas in Daimyo. You’ll notice gyoza in Fukuoka are smaller and crispier than gyoza elsewhere in Japan. Next, immerse yourself in the famous yatai food stalls to try mentai (or mentaiko), spicy cod roe. The local delicacy appears in many dishes on the menu at Mentai-chudoku, a yatai in Nagahama. Stay in the area to end the evening with a bowl of yaki ramen, another ramen that originates in Fukuoka that often gets overlooked in favor of Tonkotsu. It’s a stir-fried version of the popular noodle dish best tasted at Mentai-chudoku or another yatai in Nagahama, Dogen-ya.

“Fukuoka is a city where fashion and creativity merge easily,” says Fukuyama. “You can experience historical buildings and traditional culture, but you can also enjoy the latest trends.” While Tokyo attracts travellers who love to shop, it can take several days and complicated subway commutes to hit all the best shopping districts. Fukuoka offers arguably as much variety but at a much smaller scale. In a single day, you can explore the historic shopping arcades, impressive sprawling malls and intimate vintage shops tucked away on discreet streets, all by foot.

Better yet, you won’t miss out on any of the local culture by spending a day shopping in Fukuoka. The city’s history as a port city on the Silk Trade Routes can still be felt today in the merchant Hakata district where friendly 100-year-old shops sell traditional goods like sensu (folding fans) and goza (Japanese mats). While Fukuoka’s growth as a tech hub is evident in Daimyo and Imaizumi, two small neighboring districts with independent cafes, izakayas, and boutiques brimming with youthful energy. Splitting your day between old town and contemporary Tenjin strikes the perfect balance between tradition and modernity.

10 am – Mall-hop in Hakata. Begin your day by shopping like an old-school merchant in the former port district of Hakata on the east side of the river. The city’s oldest shopping mall, Kawabata Shopping Arcade, remains one of the city’s busiest seeing over 10,000 visitors a day. In addition to its 130 stores selling everything from kimonos to ceramics, you can find dishes unique to the mall like Kawabata red bean soup, making it the perfect place to fuel for a day of shopping. More local dishes like motsunabe (offal stew) and gyutan (beef tongue) are found in the basement of JR Hakata City, a nearby mall with giant department stores like Amu Plaza Hakata and a mix of international and local retailers. End your old town shopping spree at Canal City Hakata, which boasts over 200 brands (think: Muji and Matsumoto Kiyoshi) and a long canal running through the colorful complex.

12 pm – Feast on lunch with locals at B.B.B Potters. Standing for “brew,” “bake,” and “boil,” B.B.B. Potters is a home goods store that sells everything from dishware to duvets to stationary. Since 1991, it’s been a local favorite for its relaxed atmosphere and curated selection of lifestyle goods. On the second floor you can find locals taking a shopping break or meeting friends over tea and sweets, making it the ideal place to refuel. Lunch sets are simple with a main (think: vegetable curry or sandwich), salad and drink. With a crepier who trained in Brittany, France behind the counter, the café’s French flair shines in their savory buckwheat crepes and desserts, like rich chocolate gateau cake and Japanese cheesecake made with French cream cheese.

1:30 pm – Vintage-hunt in Imaizumi. The more relaxed of the two main shopping areas downtown, Imaizumi is best explored leisurely, letting yourself stumble on its many shops tucked upstairs and in its hidden alleyways. But if you want to wander with purpose, do so around Kego-Imaizumi Line Street, where most of the second-hand clothing stores are concentrated. At Trash, you’ll find high quality punk and glam-rock second-hand pieces that hint at the staff’s love for music. For something less flashy, both Figueruoa and USED & VINTAGE ANY offer a wide selection of women’s and men’s vintage clothes from around the world. Don’t miss Kimagureya Ane, which boasts an eccentric collection of Japanese retro items from the ‘60s and ‘70s.

3 pm – Go boutique shopping in Daimyo. Head a few blocks north to what is considered the most trendy area of Fukuoka: Daimyo. Like a calmer, wiser version of Tokyo’s Harajuku, Daimyo is filled with young adults exploring its many boutiques and independent cafes by day and unwinding at its izakayas come nightfall. The popular district has household retailers like Zara and Nike as well as upscale boutiques and second-hand shops. Vintage-hunters will want to check out Push “me” Harder for cute and feminine pieces, and Going Belbo for retro Japanese fashion from the ‘80s and ‘90s. For designer brands like Gucci and Versace at affordable prices, head to Are You Different and minim.

7 pm – Eat with fellow shoppers at the yatais in Tenjin. In a country where it’s uncommon to engage with strangers while eating, rubbing elbows with fellow shoppers at the yatais food stalls in Tenjin is a rare experience. At the stalls clustered near Daimaru department store that begin setting up at 6 pm, you’ll find classic Fukuoka dishes like yaki (stir-fried) ramen at Kokinchan but global influences too, with dishes like pumpkin gnocchi at French yatai Chez Rémy and American-style fried eggs with mentaiko (cod roe) butter at Unzen. Appealing to the cosmopolitan crowd of Tenjin with eclectic glassware and decor, each stall has its own vibe and you can’t go wrong whichever you choose.

As a port city on the Silk Road trading routes, Fukuoka has been a gateway to Korea and China since ancient times. “It has a deep history,” says Manami Ofuchi, who was born and raised in Fukuoka and leads history tours of the city. “Kyoto has a history of 1,000 years, but Fukuoka has a history of 2,000 years.” The city’s storied past marked by monks and merchants make it a treasure trove for history buffs. The first discovery lies in its geography: The river that runs through its center used to be the border between two separate cities—commercial Fukuoka on the west side, overseen by the Samurai, and the port district of Hakata on the east side, run by merchants. The two cities merged in 1889, but you’ll still hear people refer to the area east of the river as “Hakata old town.”

Hakata is where you’ll find most of the city’s ornate temples, which continue to be sites of Buddhist practice today. While Fukuoka’s temples–like Tōchō-ji, which dates back to 806 AD–allude to the city’s antiquity, don’t be fooled. Many have been reconstructed. The city has seen many battles over the centuries, including several Mongol invasions and the US bombing raid of 1945. “Fukuoka has been repeatedly destroyed and rebuilt, and there are not many old buildings,” notes Ofuchi. But as you walk through the 400-year-old ruins of Fukuoka castle and the peaceful Buddhist temples, it’s easy to feel you’ve traveled back in time.

10 am – Witness a cloud forest and explore the ruins of Fukuoka Castle. Translating to moat in Japanese, Ohori Park gets its name from its former role as the defense system for nearby Fukuoka Castle. Created in the 1920s in the classical garden style of the West Lake in China, the park is a peaceful place to start your day with its giant pond and Japanese Gardens. The latter is where you can witness a cloud forest, which blankets the garden with an enchanting fog every 30 minutes. Don’t miss the ruins of Fukuoka Castle in neighboring Maizuru Park. It was the largest castle in Kyushu during the Edo period (1603-1868) but was almost completely destroyed after the Meiji Restoration in an effort to forget Japan’s feudal past.

12 pm – Let your imagination wander at Fukuoka Art Museum. In between Maizuru and Ohori Park you’ll find one of the city’s best museums: Fukuoka Art Museum. The permanent collection spans several centuries with its ancient Buddhist statues, modern paintings, and sculptures by notable artists like Salvador Dali, and the museum regularly hosts contemporary exhibitions. If you’re hungry, head to the museum restaurant, where you can find dishes inspired by current exhibitions.

1:30 pm – Temple-tour through Hakata Old Town. As a historic hub of spirituality, Fukuoka has countless temples and shrines to explore. To see the most in a small vicinity, head east of the river to Hakata. At Tōchō-ji temple, you’ll find the largest seated wooden Buddha in the country and one of the city’s most unique spiritual experiences: a pilgrimage through Buddhist hell. The narrow passage—which begins with painting depictions of sin and ends with a walk through complete darkness—is meant to encourage facing your inner self and finding enlightenment. Afterwards, lighten the mood at Jotenji Temple, home to a tranquil Japanese garden and stone memorial noting that the temple was the first place in Japan where udon and soba noodles were made. Another historic temple not to miss is Shoufukuji, the country’s first Zen temple established in 1195 by Eisai, a Buddhist monk who would become the father of Japanese Zen.

3 pm – Shop at the city’s oldest mall. While you’re in the historic merchant area of Hakata, head to Kawabata Shopping Arcade, which has been in operation since the mid-1950s. Two buildings—Kawabata Chuo Shopping Arcade and Kami-Kawabata Shopping Arcade—contain more than 130 stores attracting over 10,000 visitors daily. Browse the hand-carved seals at Kumagai inbo (which they’ve been making since before World War II), and the miniature Buddhist altars at Hasegawa Butsudan. You’ll find a similar peaceful vibe at Asajima Ryubundo, a traditional seal maker that houses its own small Japanese garden. Refuel at Kawabata Zenzai Hiroba, a historic confectioner serving Kawabata zenzai, a sweet red bean soup that has become a speciality of the shopping mall since it was first served in 1994. With its giant yama float outside—a traditional float meant to resemble mountains—you can’t miss it.

7 pm – Eat at the historic yatais near Hakata. Few dining experiences in Fukuoka are as historic as dining at these popular food stalls that are believed to date back to the 5th century. When concerns about health and safety in the lead-up to the 1964 Tokyo Olympics led to their widespread closure, Fukuoka vendors were the only ones in the country who successfully protected their business. Compared to the golden age of yatais in the early 20th century when there were believed to be some 400 stalls in operation, the 150 remaining yatais continuously fight regulations to keep the tradition alive. Head to Hakata for some of the classic yatais serving traditional favorites like yakitori (grilled skewers) and oden (vegetable hot pot). The most iconic yatais are so old school, they’re not online, but you’ll be able to guess at their reputations based on the length of their lines. Head to Sayoko in Nagahama to see a stall that Szasz says has been in operation for 44 years by the Sayoko sisters affectionately known as “grandma.”

The Ritz-Carlton, Fukuoka ($$$$)
Occupying the upper floors of a soaring glass tower in the thriving Tenjin Daimyo district, one of Fukuoka’s only luxury five-star hotels is an elegant retreat in the heart of the city. Spacious rooms and suites are outfitted with textured weavings and ceramics by Fukuoka-born artists, and offer panoramic views of Hakata Bay, Ohori Park and the Fukuoka skyline. Sustainably sourced local ingredients are celebrated at the hotel’s six dining venues, and at the spa, where guests can experience unique treatments like seaweed body wraps and heated rice-kernel therapy.

The Blossom Hakata Premier ($$)
Centrally located in Hakata old town, this sophisticated hotel offers all the perks of a Japanese hotel—onsite onsen baths, guest rooms with tatami areas and complimentary PJs—at an affordable price. While there are plenty of restaurants in the area and the walkable city beckons you outdoors, there are two on-site restaurants and a fitness room for your convenience.

The Hotels Hakata Harushige Shinkan ($$)
In the rising tech hub that is Tenjin, you’ll be hard-pressed to find a hotel that offers this kind of value. The intimate hotel’s 13 air-conditioned guest rooms feature all the modern conveniences you’ll need, which in Japan means a bidet and complimentary toiletries too. The design is minimalist and sleek, offering a tranquil reprieve from the bustle outside.

The Japanese currency is the yen (円, en). Bills typically come in 1,000 yen, 5,000 yen and 10,000 yen denominations. As of November 2024, $1 USD exchanges for roughly 154 Japanese yen.

Japan uses Type A and Type B plugs. Both types are marked by two parallel flat pins (like North American plugs), but Type B is differentiated by a third rounded pin centered below. Japan’s standard frequency is 50Hz and voltage is 100V (compared to 120V in North America), so you’ll want to use a power adapter.

With the humid summer climate bringing rain in July and typhoons in August, the shoulder seasons are best. “Spring is great for flowers, and fall offers cool, dry weather, ideal for outdoor activities like cycling and hiking,” recommends Szasz. Ofuchi agrees, “The cherry blossoms are beautiful in spring and the autumn leaves are wonderful in the fall.” Metcalfe endorses the comfortable temperatures and elevated mood of cherry blossom-season—which begins at the end of March—but he also recommends winter, when Mizutake (chicken hot pot) hits the spot.

To get the best of both seasons, visit in February, when the first blooms arrive in the form of plum blossoms and sake breweries debut their freshly made sake with barrel opening events.

Like the rest of Japan, there is a lot of etiquette to learn if you want to travel respectfully in Fukuoka. Metcalfe recommends reading up on how to use your chopsticks. “Don’t pass food to others with chopsticks, don’t stick chopsticks in a bowl of rice, and don’t pierce your food with your chopsticks,” the long-time resident explains. “Better to have some cultural awareness than to learn later you were doing something wrong (like mistakenly wearing the toilet slippers in the restaurant). It is also generally frowned upon to eat while you’re walking, and to shake hands and hug.

Fukuoka is the birthplace of tonkotsu ramen, defined by its rich, creamy pork bone broth. Szasz recommends skipping the big chains to sample it: “Wander down a quiet backstreet and find a small, unassuming ramen shop, sit at the counter and enjoy an authentic bowl in a no-frills, local spot—simple, inexpensive, and delicious.” When you do, take note of the dish’s distinctly thin noodle, which Ofuchi says hints at the locals’ temperament: “Fukuoka people are short-tempered, which is why their ramen is thin and boiled for a short time.”

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