This Quaint California Town Is the Quintessential Wine Country Escape

While St. Helena happens to be the patron saint of difficult marriages and divorced people, it seems that a couple of days away with your partner in her namesake city in Napa Valley might have the opposite effect. Known for its impeccable winery scene, this quaint town was designated a wine-grape growing region by the American Viticultural Area (AVA) in 1995. St. Helena's vineyards cover more than 6,000 acres and the town is known for its red wines like Zinfandel and Pinot Noir. So, to put it simply: this is an oenophile's paradise. 

But St. Helena is worth visiting even if you're not into wine. With firm regulations against chain restaurants and new gas stations, a visit here promises to be the quintessential small town escape. And lately, there have been a number of exciting changes and fun openings in the area, making it a perfect weekend getaway. Don’t worry about getting a pet-sitter—there are tons of places that will gladly welcome you and your favorite animal and loved one(s).

1.5 hours from San Francisco

First, you have to decide what kind of wine tasting experience you’re in the mood for. Options range from high-end, appointment-only spots to hip newcomers and historic estates. Ehlers Estate is run by winemaker Adam Castro, who is dedicated to shifting our new world understanding of wine away from varieties and more towards expression of place. The 42-acre estate vineyard is unique in terms of diversity in soil composition, and the recent renovation spiffed up the original stone barn winery built in 1886 into a cozy yet modern space for tastings. The redesign also established an outdoor pavilion, updated landscaping, and a shaded canopy area for guests in the historic olive grove.

Pioneer winery Grgich Hills Estate is an essential stop on the Napa Valley Wine Train. While it can be quite touristy, it has cred for a reason. Founder Miljenko “Mike” Grgich, a Croatian immigrant who fled a tiny village in 1954 to settle in Napa four years later, was the winemaker of the winning 1973 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay from the legendary Paris Tasting in 1976. He passed away last year, but you can get a taste of that heritage in the 2021 Paris Tasting Commemorative Chardonnay release, made in a similar full bodied style. The family run company is also very involved in promoting sustainable farming and the regenerative organic movement.

For a more urban wine tasting experience, book a timeslot at Orin Swift Cellars & Winery, who just opened a brand-new, sleek and modern tasting room on Main Street. The company, founded in 1998 by owner and winemaker, Dave Phinney, has a loyal following for its interesting red blends and memorable labels.

St. Helena's aptly named Main Street, dotted with trees, galleries, and excellent shopping, is perfect for a leisurely stroll. Don’t miss a stop at NO|MA House Café & Collective, designer Ann Backen’s chic new shop and café. The lauded Backen & Backen Architecture firm is still located behind the space, while the front was transformed into a cozy, light, and welcoming shop filled with soft textiles. “She doesn’t want to be what everyone else is,” says devoted employee Heinz, of the unique concept. Curated items are displayed in the shop, including best-sellers like Mifuko woven bags, clean beauty products, and high-end nipple covers. Duck into Fideaux to reward your pet after all the shopping and wine tasting, before walking to Wappo Dog Park south of Pope Street Bridge along the Napa River.

Most people know that the Culinary Institute of America (CIA) is the most legit culinary school for burgeoning chefs and bakers, but few are aware  that the school’s only West Coast campus is located in St. Helena at the Greystone Cellars estate, a notable property on the National Register of Historic Places. The school is open to the public for tours as well as for leisure, and features a bakery and restaurant onsite with food items made by the students undergoing their rigorous culinary studies. Plus, it's pet-friendly; while animals can’t go into the kitchens for sanitation purposes, they’re allowed pretty much everywhere else. For a great deal, book dinner reservations at The Gatehouse Restaurant onsite; a four-course meal is $65 with optional wine pairing for an additional $50.

For retro chic vibes: Station, located in a busy section of Main Street, always seems to have a line (not too long, just enough to know that everyone likes it here). The former gas station turned shiny new coffee shop and bakery is where vintage vibes and modern innovations intersect. Come early for yeasty glazed doughnuts, bacon and egg biscuit sandwiches with a spicy pimento spread, or the gigantic, fruit and chocolate studded gluten-free “Superhero” muffin that might weigh more than your dog. At night, Station becomes a popular NYC-inspired pizza joint. 

For food just as good as the wine:Farmstead at Long Meadow Ranch is a bustling compound featuring a garden lounge and cafe, tasting room, farmers market, general store, and onsite restaurant. At the latter, they serve items like steak frites, creamy grits, and an array of kale salads and wood-fired pizzas, all of which utilize their homegrown olive oil, grass-fed highland beef and lamb, honey, and seasonal produce.

For dinner with a group: Charlie’s might be new but it is not to be missed. The central, open bar is a fun spot to perch and sip on interesting cocktails like the Golden Equinox, a tropical whisky sour notched up with falernum, almond, and cinnamon. The menu is built to share, so if you are with a group, definitely order the abundant seafood party platter and the flatbread (cooked outside in the brick oven) with seasonal dips.

For the best Manhattan of your life: If your palate is tired of all the wine, hit up Goose & Gander, located in the historic Martini House with sweeping patio space that is perfect for lazing around. While it’s a full restaurant, the cocktail program is the main priority. Don't forge to check out the moody basement bar complete with leather and dim lighting.

For luxurious, pet-friendly lodging: It can be challenging to find accommodations that are pet-friendly but also appealing (and romantic), but Harvest Inn is just that. Most of the rooms feature cool brick work (the original builder was a brick mason) and fireplaces, making for an atmospheric place to cuddle up with views of the neighboring vineyard mere steps away. A recent renovation updated the rooms and amenities, yet prices are amazingly affordable compared to alternate hotels in Napa Valley. Onsite restaurant Harvest Table has a menu to suit everyone’s taste, as well as great cocktails and a comprehensive wine list. When booking, know that all room types have a dog friendly option. 

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