This Laid-Back City Is the Birthplace of Modern Surfing in Japan
Kamakura is for shrines, surfing, and ultimate relaxation—and it's easy to reach from Tokyo.
On the southern coast of Japan, not far from Tokyo, travelers leave the city behind in favor of a laid-back surfer vibe, complete with plenty of beaches. The city of Kamakura is one of Japan’s ancient capitals, but also the birthplace of modern surfing in Japan. Ideal for a relaxed getaway, it blends beachy charm with lots of temples and shrines. With festivals honoring everything from Samurai horseback archery to Japanese folk dancing, the city has something for everyone—but especially surfers, beachgoers, and Japanese culture enthusiasts taking a break from the chaos of Tokyo.
Where Tokyo is a beautiful fever dream of robots waiting on tables and real-life MarioKart games, Kamakura is a breath of ocean air, the perfect respite after time spent in Japan’s most exciting major city. It’s the last thing people think about when they picture Japan: A sleepy seaside town surrounded by mountains where you can slow down and hit the waves. And it might be small, but there's plenty to do in Kamakura if you know where to look.
Travel time
1 hour by train from Tokyo
If you only do one thing: Relax and recharge at the beach
With more than four miles of coastline, Kamakura has plenty of beaches for whichever seaside activity floats your boat. The best time for swimming is July and August, which also brings the most tourists, but there’s plenty to do during the rest of the year as well.
Yuigahama Beach is the closest to the city center, lined with cafes, restaurants, surf shops, and bars. It’s the most popular beach in the area, so if you want to be around a lot of people, this is the one for you. Yuigahama is also one of the best surf spots, especially for beginners. Spring and fall offer the best waves, but you can surf all year round with a wetsuit. Dylan Patrick Croke, owner of the city’s popular Home Taco Bar, is an avid surfer who moved to Kamakura from California and recommends Powder Company for surf lessons. “The surf shop has a view of the ocean and the best teachers in Shonan,” he says. For more experienced surfers, Inamuragasaki Beach has a reef break and gets wild during typhoon season (May through October). But be warned: Expect some competition for waves, since many locals go here.
For activities beyond surfing, Zaimokuza Beach has calmer water and is a great place to try stand-up paddleboarding, kayaking, or water biking. Adrenaline enthusiasts can also try flyboarding; JSP Kamakura gives lessons and rents the equipment.
The whole coastline of Kamakura is gorgeous, with immaculate soft sand for walks along the beach. You can reach the beach of your choice on the Enoden train, which follows the coast. Whatever you decide to do, don’t miss the dreamy views of snow-capped Mt. Fuji while you listen to the waves crash.
A quick note to the inked: tattoos are not allowed on the beach. The city of Kamakura asks that you cover your tattoo with clothing—or if that doesn’t work, a bandage.
Fill the weekend with
The Kotoku-in (Great Buddha)
If a nearly 50-foot-tall bronze statue of the Kamakura Daibutsu sounds magnificent, know that it’s even more impressive in person. Surrounded by nature, it exudes peace and serenity. The statue’s history is almost as amazing as its appearance; construction began in 1252, and it was originally enshrined in halls that were destroyed by typhoons and earthquakes. Throughout it all, the great Buddha remained standing.
Take a good long look at the statue during your visit, but don't bother going inside the temple; it’s hot and a lot less impressive than the exterior.
Shrines
It seems that there are endless shrines around Kamakura, each with its merits, and you won’t go wrong with any of them. Erin Nigl, a Kamakura local, has a favorite shrine for every season. “Kenchoji is such an architectural marvel and beautiful during cherry blossoms. Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gu is also a grand place but gets crowded. There is a nice view of the main drag from atop the steps. Ugafuku is unique, small, and fun, though a pain to walk up the steep slope.” Her all-around favorite though, is Hasedera. “It’s amazing during hydrangea season (June), but best to come early in the day. Fall is also cozy. It has a fantastic view of the coastline, a tea house—and on New Year's Eve, it's candlelit with gongs chiming at midnight.”
Shopping on Komichidori Street
Starting at the red torii gate, this boulevard of unique shops and yummy street food is a fun way to while away an afternoon. Do not skip shrimp shumai (dumplings filled with shrimp and covered in ponzu sauce), or ichigo dango (strawberry mochi balls on a stick). The perfect spot to get your souvenirs and gifts to take home, there are plenty of stores with traditional ceramics, knives, kimonos, and chopsticks. Studio Ghibli fans should make sure to stop into the Donguri store (the official Ghibli shop) for things you won’t see anywhere else.
Where to eat and drink in Kamakura
For lunch: Nigl recommends Yoshimoto for traditional Japanese eats. “It’s a long-time local favorite run by an older couple,” she says. “There’s no menu so it’s easy to order. Just home-style, seasonal dishes at a good price.”
For dinner: Maybe you feel like you’ll never tire of Japanese food, but if you find yourself in the mood for perfectly spiced Mexican food and a friendly, laid-back atmosphere, stop into Home Taco Bar for a burrito and you may end up staying for hours. After you’ve had your tacos and while you’re sipping your margarita, make sure to ask the owner about the time he went viral for accidentally photobombing a once-every-five-years train picture and the ensuing ruckus.
For kaiseki (a full course meal): Kitakamakura En, at the entrance to Engakuji Temple, serves traditional Japanese courses. Each course is prepared using a different cooking style, and it looks almost as good as it tastes. There’s sashimi, something grilled, a simmered course, rice, miso soup, and sweets.
For drinks: Antique store by day, cocktail lounge by night, Milk Hall is the kind of place that feels like a secret. Off the beaten path, they play jazz music all evening and serve affordable drinks. Honorable mention goes to Pilgrim So San, the best wine bar in town with a homey and cheerful communal table, yummy snacks, and a selection of house-made wines, sakes, and ciders.
Where to stay
For traditional Omotenashi (Japanese hospitality): Converted from a 160-year-old Japanese guesthouse, the Kamakura Cocon makes you feel like you’ve been transported to the Shogun series, but with concierge services. There are just two suites with tatami-style (but extremely comfortable) beds, micro-bubble baths (little bubbles, big tubs), and comfortable living rooms. The hotel’s 10-seat restaurant has an open kitchen serving up Italian meals from local ingredients at night and Japanese breakfasts, including grilled fish and miso soup, in the morning.
Walking distance to everything: A great affordable option with modern rooms, the Hotel Metropolitan is located right next to the torii-gate to Hachimanguis: a two-minute walk from the train station, 10 minutes to Tsurugaoka Hachimangu Shrine, and less than a mile to the beach. Loaded with American-style amenities, the hotel’s attentive staff and spacious rooms make it feel more expensive than it is.
If you want to stay on the beach: The Casablanca Pool House has a gorgeous heated pool you can use all year round, a tranquil garden, and beautiful ocean views. The very private and upscale oasis is a bit off of the main drag, but if you’re looking to relax, sitting in the hanging chairs gazing at the ocean is hard to beat.