A Port-by-Port Guide to Norway's Most Otherworldly Fjords

Southwestern Norway is a corner of the globe marked by its almost otherworldly natural features—its unique geography inseparable from the culture and customs of its inhabitants. Although Norwegians live a largely western lifestyle, the day-to-day rhythms of life here are inevitably ruled by the climate, the sunlight, and its world-famous fjords.

It may be the home of long, dark winters and black metal, but across Norway, warmth and light are surprisingly easy to come by too, particularly in this region–you’ll just have to wait until spring. In the meantime, the colder months are the perfect time to embrace the coziness of a sauna or the drama of a ski hill. When the sun returns, you have gorgeous waters to swim in and expansive terrain to hike.

The port cities and villages that dot this rugged coastline offer a rich sampling of the very best of Norwegian culture. Take a guided tour for an introduction to its rich roots as you set foot in its stave churches, quaint businesses, and charming eateries serving up local fishers’ freshest catches. Along the way, you’ll discover why Norway is often judged as one of the world’s greatest places to not just visit, but to live.

See: Flåmsbana. If you make just one jaunt while in the region, make sure you hop aboard this train, which begins at sea level and climbs over 2,800 feet through beautifully rugged terrain to Myrdal mountain station. It only takes an hour, and ranks among the world’s most stunning train routes.

Touch: The silky white sands of Åkrafjorden, one of the most beautiful beaches in Norway, where you can walk, bathe, and kayak in crystalline waters.

Smell: The dewy pines and mineral waters that characterize the region’s iconic fjords like the Aurlandsfjord, the Åkrafjord, and the Lysefjord. While exploring, make time for the hiking routes—most of them accessible by car or by old railways offering plenty of stops along the way.

Hear: Black metal. The sometimes controversial sub-genre originated in Norway and was inspired by the nation’s wilderness and extreme natural elements. Listen as you walk around Stavanger or try and catch a show at cozy live music pub Piren.

Taste: Fresh berries and smoked fish—all beloved local delicacies—at Flåm’s rambunctious Aegir Microbrewery. Taste Norway’s rich and fortifying history and culture like a true Sami.

Haugesund is a walkable and postcard-esque city of long, watery proportions with plenty to see and hear about. Explore 17th-century Norway to the present on a walking tour or at the Karmsund Folkemuseum, or you can dig into Scandinavian war history at the war museum. The city’s many museums explore local art and artisanal craftsmanship, long ships, fishing, and the agricultural and anthropological history of this busy destination.

While in Haugesund, you’ll also want to keep your eyes peeled for Norway’s obelisk national monument, Haraldshaugen, which was built in 1872 to commemorate a century of unification. Haraldshaugen is said to be the burial place of Harald Fairhair, Norway’s first king.

Morning: Take a step back into this city’s rich history by taking a guided tour led by a local expert. Tours offered by Viking Adventure are a sure bet.

Noon: Visiting Åkrasanden just might ruin all other beaches for you. Accessible from Haugesund by hired car, bus, or private transfer, this stretch of white sand and aquamarine North Sea water feels almost like a tropical paradise, except with waters brisk enough to wake you up and sand just perfect for sunbathing, picnicking, birdwatching, or going for a walk. Once there, Fiordos Noruegos offers a range of brief beach and fjord excursions that will allow you to still get back to the city with time to spare.

Afternoon: Explore the candy-colored facades of the fjordic waterfront, then wander down picturesque Haraldsgata, teeming with cafes and boutiques. An early afternoon aperitif at one of Haugesund’s oldest pubs, Mackkjelleren, is a great spot to get chatting with locals and sample this spot’s signature brews.

Evening: Dine at the dainty, low-key but romantic Dattera Til Lothe. Book a table and enjoy their earth fish soups and stews, open-faced shrimp sandwiches, raw rainbow salads, steaks, and market greens, all in a gently lit setting filled with carved woods and fresh flowers. This spot also boasts a great wine list.

A 12th-century cathedral looms at the heart of this industrial fjordside city, bringing together its historic and contemporary vibes with a perfectly Norwegian finesse. Stavanger is a quieter city, but its university town status means it is still bursting with plenty of youthful energy.

One of Norway’s most-talked-about fjords (Lysefjord) is 75 minutes away from town, but if you’d rather not make the schlep to the mountains, Stavanger is still home to plenty of shopping and eating options to keep you entertained in its downtown area.

Morning: The Gamle Stavanger historic city center and its cobblestone streets will have you seriously considering relocating here. Its 170 white wooden houses predate World War II and are lined with sunflowers and foxgloves and copious Norwegian flags. The whole thing screams cozy, maritime, slightly haunted chic.

Noon: Exploring Lysefjord from Stavanger is also easily done on a tight timeline. You may leave late in the morning and be back for an early dinner. The ferry goes directly from downtown and the four-hour round trip is worth the drop-dead beautiful scenery. Aboard the ferry, you’ll likely spot seals basking on rocks and you’ll also float right past the infamous Vagabond’s Cave and creep close to the intense Hengjanefossen waterfall.

Late afternoon: Grab a table at Gådjå Etiopisk, a perfectly local and lowkey eatery that is a Stavanger favorite. Sharing platters of spongy buckwheat injera bread and all the bean stews and sauces it can mop up is comforting after a long day spent exploring.

Evening: If you find yourself in town after dark, you’ll realize that Stavanger isn’t necessarily the place for a wild night out. Check the listings, though, for venues like Piren or Backstage and you might be able to catch some live music.

If you’ve ever been to Iceland or the Faroe Islands, Flåm is a village that calls to mind some of the most remote elements of both beloved destinations. This is evident in Flåm’s lush emerald hills and fields, dramatic waterfalls, sharp cliffs, and winding bends with striking views around every corner. Nestled at the far end of Aurlandsfjord, a vein of the vast Sognefjord, this tiny ancient spot is hugged by mountains over 4,500 feet high. The surrounding UNESCO World Heritage site, Aurlandsfjord, is one of the nation’s most cherished destinations and measures over 10 miles long.

Home to less than 500 Norwegians who live in the village year-round, Flåm welcomes many thousands of visitors each year who come to see its museum and adorable cafes and restaurants. But the main attraction is without doubt the iconic Flåmsbana railway, which allows you to hurtle through the landscape in a vintage train compartment.

Morning: Make like Elsa and her Frozen friends aboard the Flåmsbana. If you feel like you’re living in a movie while in Flåm, it’s probably because its scenery is said to have inspired the Disney blockbuster. The Flåmsbana from Flåm to Myrdal passes through 20 tunnels and stops many times for photo ops along the way, making it the ideal way to experience everything the village and its surroundings have to offer.

Noon: Marvel in the heights of this majestic railway and enjoy the view from the top. Indulge in a warm waffle or pancake the charming Cafe Rallaren, and wind your way back down while enjoying a new view of everything you saw on the way up.

Afternoon: Take in the sights and smells of Flåm’s catch of the day, before settling in at the local legend that is the Green Norway Flåm street food stall in the main village square. You might get different jewels of the ocean depending on the day and season, but it will be comforting and served in a bustling environment that feels truly characteristic of this friendly, sleepy, startlingly beautiful place. Take a seat at a picnic table to slurp down on your fish chowder as you watch the village life go by.

Evening: Aegir Microbrewery, named after the Norse God of the seas, is a family affair founded by an American Norwegian husband-and-wife team. It’s a cozy Viking pub where you can do tastings and tours before feasting on hearty dishes that trace their roots back over a century. Aegir’s blends of hops with fresh mountain water must be sampled, as should their newer range of fruity hard seltzers.

The currency is Norwegian kroner (crowns), not Euros. But credit cards are widely accepted and cash is rarely needed.

Regular EU adaptors will do. Try and bring slim adaptors for any older plugs.

When to visit Norway really depends on whether you’re a fire-and-ice sort of person, or a summer lizard. Winters bring the aurora and more winter sports, along with the need to pack plenty of layers. Visiting during the summer months allows you to experience a wider range of activities.

Do expect and prepare for any weather, and don’t expect anything to come cheap in Norway. Meals are generally quite hearty and generous, alcoholic drinks very expensive.

Aquavit is literally the lifeblood of any seafaring fjordperson, so make like a local and down it at least once during your visit. It will protect you against the cold, and you can make a wish before your shot.

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