Three Perfect Days Off the Beaten Path in Rio de Janeiro

The Brazilian city’s postcard-ready beaches have long been bucket-list material for the wanderlust-prone, as has the world wonder Christ the Redeemer (Cristo Redentor). But tucked between its hilltop neighborhoods and 50-plus miles of pristine beach coastline, A Cidade Maravilhosa (The Marvelous City) has so much more to discover.

Learn about Brazil’s painful, yet vibrant history by touring an Afro-Brazilian neighborhood and immersing yourself in the rich and colorful art that history has inspired. Frolic with fellow outdoorsy types on Rio’s less-visited west zone (Zona Oeste) beaches and atop mountain jungle trails that lead to gushing waterfalls. Or, if you’re looking for the best caipirinha (the famous Brazilian cocktail made with sugarcane spirit cachaça, sugar, and fruit), party with locals at a favela.

There is a lifetime of things to experience in Rio for every traveler. Here’s where to get started.

See: Views of the city with a samba soundtrack. See Rio from a hilltop viewpoint most locals don’t even know about: Mirante do Pedrão. On weekends, the stunning views of Pão de Açúcar (Sugarloaf Mountain) and Botafogo are paired with a live samba, jazz or pagode (a more romantic subgenre of samba also developed in Rio) show from a stage up top. As with most outdoor samba shows in Rio, entrance is free.

Touch: Pão de Açúcar while rock climbing. The Bondinho, Rio’s famous aerial cable car, wasthe third of its kind in the world when it first embarked from the quiet neighborhood of Urca in 1912. But you’ll avoid the crowds and get a good workout by clinging onto the steep rockface on one of its rock climbing routes. Or, if you don’t have climbing experience, haul yourself up the lone Via Ferrata cable.

Smell: The air from Rio’s highest elevated peak inside its huge urban rainforest. Rio is known for its beaches, but fewer talk about how it’s home to the world’s largest urban jungle: Parque Nacional da Tijuca. Covering nearly 10,000 acres and split over three sections, Tijuca National Park has dozens of trails through dense forest past spiky jackfruit, howler monkeys, and coffee plantation ruins. Climb a literal off-the-beaten path up to Pico Tijuca, Rio’s tallest peak in elevation at 3,353 feet high.

Hear: Live jazz atThe Maze. Wind through the twisting and turning alleyways of the Tavares Bastos favela above Catete to find a venue that could easily have been dreamed up by Spanish architect Antoni Gaudí. The Maze is styled with bright ceramics and hosts spirited jazz shows. Grab tickets in advance via the link on their Instagram to ensure you get in.

Taste: Feijoada at Quilombo Ferreira Diniz. During more than three centuries of slavery, fugitive and freed enslaved people formed communities called quilombos based on unifying principles like cultural preservation, sustainable agriculture, and collective resistance. Unlike similarly-fashioned maroons in the US, quilombos still exist in Brazil and number an estimated 6,000 today. Meet one of these resilient communities on Fridays at Quilombo Ferreira Diniz in Glória, where matriarch Tia Cida cooks her delicious feijoada (a black bean and meat stew) while live samba plays in the garden.

Rio has a history that is as fascinating as it is tragic. Since the Portuguese invaded the Indigenous-inhabited area in 1502, two million enslaved Africans were shipped to Rio’s ports. By the time slavery was finally abolished in 1888, one in five slaves worldwide passed through Rio.

Learning about Rio’s history is as pivotal to every visit as jumping into the ocean, and the best place to do that is in Rio’s downtown (Centro). Recent renovations after years of neglect have uncovered pivotal sites in the city’s history, including Caís do Valongo, a former slave market that’s now a UNESCO World Heritage site. Visit the landmark and learn how Afro-Brazilians who settled nearby managed to not only preserve their traditions, but create entirely new art forms.

While downtown, you can also get a taste of Rio’s art scene at a warehouse turned cultural center before heading to Rio’s oldest residential street to see preserved architecture. Complete your day with a trip up to Santa Teresa, the city’s most famous art district, and peek your head in some of its ateliers before seeing sunset from the hilltop.

9:30 am - Learn about Afro-Brazilian culture in Pequena Africa (Little Africa). After the trans-Atlantic trade was abolished in the 19th century, an African diaspora formed in an area of downtown Rio that came to be known as Paquena África. The neighborhood went on to be a place where Afro-Brazilian culture blossomed, and where musicians played the first samba. Learn more on a Free Walking Tour, offered on Wednesday and Thursday mornings at 9:30 am. “Rio was the biggest port of enslaved Africans in the Americas and it shows in its culture as well in its people,” says tour guide Rafael Pavão. “Through our Little Africa tour, we explore a little bit of this massive history, both the atrocities and the beauty that can rise from something so ugly.”

12 pm - Have lunch over a historic plaza. Head upstairs to Casa Porto, a Brazilian restaurant overlooking Largo de São Francisco da Prainha, a vibrant square that used to be a streetcar stop (anything in Rio named Largo was a station) surrounded by colorful Portuguese-style buildings. The square often hosts live music in the day and becomes a raucous party at night, especially on Mondays for the live samba at nearby Pedra do Sal.

1 pm - Visit an art gallery warehouse. It isn’t always open to the public, but Fábrica Behring is a terrific place to experience Rio’s thriving art scene. Formerly one of the country’s largest coffee factories, the cultural center now houses dozens of artist ateliers and frequently hosts exhibitions, especially on Saturdays.

2 pm - Wander Rio’s oldest residential street. First established in 1778, Rua do Lavradio is a symbol of how downtown Rio used to look, and how it could look if more work was done to preserve its historic architecture. “Rua do Lavradio is a good example of how a space abandoned by the government and completely run-down, like a phoenix reborn, can be transformed into one of the city's most important and effervescent cultural areas,” said Plinio Fróes, owner of eclectic samba venue Rio Scenarium. If you come on a Saturday, the street turns into a huge artisan market called Feira do Rio Antigo. Galeria Scenarium, a gallery open only on market days, has beautiful exhibits centered on Portuguese tiles and works by Jorge Selarón, the Chilean artist behind the famous Lapa Steps. Also on market days, there’s one of the most popular weekly local sambas around the corner at Armazém Senado as well as a baile charme (coordinated line dancing) on nearby Rua do Resende.

3 pm - Take the streetcar to Santa Teresa. OK, this one’s not exactly off the beaten track, but it’s the best, and most fun, way to get up to Santa Teresa. The cute yellow streetcar, the Bonde, is the last remaining streetcar in a city that used to be full of them. Get your ticket at the station in Centro and ride it up and over the Lapa Arches up to Santa Teresa. Stay on board until then end and then get off in the heart of the neighborhood at Largo das Guimarães.

4 pm - Shop at galleries and ateliers. Santa Teresa is filled with art galleries, shops, and ateliers that open their doors year-round, and especially during festivals like Faust and Arte de Porta Abertas. One particular gallery to check out is Nau Cultural, which showcases art from mostly Afro-Brazilian women in the northeast. “Nau Cultural presents the art that springs from the earth, taking shape in the hands of artisans,” says Isabela Carpena, who owns the gallery with her partner Felipe Pithan. “Souvenirs and objects in clay, wood, paintings and engravings—expressions of pure Brasilidade (Brazilianness).” Other cool Santa Teresa stops include record shop Vinil do Mustafa, which also hosts live shows, and Bonzolandia Damado, a sidewalk gallery in the shape of a street car that sells art made with recycled materials.

6 pm - Enjoy a sunset dinner at Pizzaria do Hedi. Santa Teresa’s prime placement on a hill makes for some epic views. Have a gander while eating tasty thin-crust pizza and sipping wine at this under-the-radar restaurant.

8 pm - End your day with drinks in a unique photo gallery. Down the hill in Glória, grab a drink at Birosca. The bar is surrounded by urban ruins, which provide a dramatic backdrop for the photography displayed at the gallery it’s found in, Retrato Espaço Cultural.

Look around Rio and you’ll probably see someone exercising. Whether they’re going to the gym, playing fûtevolei (volleyball with a dash of soccer) or hiking in the mountains, there’s a culture of health and fitness in Rio that’s unparalleled anywhere in the world—and it’s easy to get involved during your visit.

There are plenty of classes on the beach, including cross-training workouts, volleyball, and yoga—most offer free trials. Or download the Mude app for a list of classes offered for free.

Or you can explore the scene on your own schedule by renting an orange bike Itaú with its app (it’s also available on Uber’s app). There are thousands of stations around the city and rides are cheap, especially if you get a monthly pass. Alternatively, get your own bicycle or scooter for the day by renting from BikeZRio in Copacabana—WhatsApp +55 21 98326-3040 to book. “Rio is a great place to ride,” says BikeZRio owner José Loretti. “It's so beautiful and we have a cycling path that covers most of its beautiful places, such as the beaches of Copacabana, Ipanema, Leblon, São Conrado, Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas, Sugarloaf, the port area, and much more.”

Travelers following healthier, plant-based diets can also rest assured that there are plenty of options in Rio, including plant-based takes on Brazilian cuisine. “It’s been common for a while for traditional restaurants in Europe to have vegan and vegetarian restaurants, now you encounter that in Rio too,” said Thina Izidoro, who opened one of the city’s first vegan restaurants, Vegan Vegan, in 1990. They serve vegan versions of Brazilian dishes like feijoada and acarajé (fried bean and oil stuffed patty).

4 am - Get up early for a sunrise hike. Set your alarm and wake up to see the spectacular sunrise from Dois Irmãos (Two Brothers Mountain). Yes, sunrise comes super early in Rio, but you’ll see why it’s worth waking up when the city lights up in incandescent reds and oranges. To access the trailhead, hire a moto-taxi from the bottom of the Vidigal favela and ask for the trilho. The hike to the viewpoint takes about 40 minutes each way.

7 am - Cycle to the beach for açaí. Have the motorcycle driver take you down to Leblon where you can rent an Itaú bike. Bike west along the path that juts out over the sea until you arrive at upscale São Conrado Beach. Have an açaí for breakfast at a beach kiosk like Quiosque Voo Livre and take a dip. If you want a more secluded slice of beach heaven, take a taxi or Uber to Joatinga and Praia dos Amores (Lovers Beach). Check a tide chart first as these beaches disappear in high tide.

12 pm - Ferry to urban islands for lunch. Hop in another taxi and then take a ferry boat to a set of islands within the urban landscape that some call Rio’s Venice. Take a ferry from outside the Barry Point shopping center and wander around Ilha da Gigóia—the island has full-time inhabitants as well as cafes, restaurants, and even accommodations if you want to stay the night. For an upscale seafood meal on the waterfront, take another ferry over to Ilha Primeira for lunch at Ocyá.

3 pm - Hike to waterfalls in the jungle. In a wild, under-visited portion of Tijuca National Park, find a string of trails to waterfalls including Cachoeira do Horto. Get here via taxi or Uber—the trailhead is easily marked, though the trails are no easy feat and involve climbing up ropes. When you’ve had enough, return to the road and walk to Vista Chinesa for a gorgeous sunset.

7 pm - Have dinner in a garden. Vegetarian and vegan restaurants are popping up all over Rio, especially in the neighborhood of Botafogo. Vegan Vegan—which first started in Leblon and is now in Botafogo—was one of the first. There, eat traditional Brazilian food adapted for vegans in their lush garden. It’s a rare vegan restaurant that stays open for dinner.

Cariocas (the nickname for residents of Rio) might be health-conscious, but they also love to party. “Besides the hot temperatures outside, I think people in Rio have this internal heat that gives us soul," said Billie Jean Veloso, manager at hip Glória pizza bar Fatchia.

Partying in Rio is not confined to the typical definition of “nightlife.” Drinking starts early on the beach where you can join locals in sipping a fruity caipirinha or local beer. Cariocas won’t drink beer if it’s warm—it’s always served ice cold, bem gelada.

Away from the beach, there are plenty of places to have more fun throughout the day, and these spots are often accompanied by live samba on the weekend. After that, most nights out in Rio end up in Lapa, a neighborhood that’s home to some of the city’s best bars. Alternatively, Botafogo is another place to be if you want a cocktail in hip surroundings. If you’re looking to extend the party into the wee hours of the night that blend into the morning, there are a few clubs in Centro that cater to the most devoted of partygoers. The Shotgun app is the best place to find DJ events.

10 am - Drink on the beach. Shake off your ressaca (hangover) by hanging out on Leme Beach. While Leme runs along the same stretch of sand as Copacabana, it is less of a tourist trap and the vibe is celebratory and welcoming to all, especially at barraca (tent) bar Rasta Beach. “The barraca grows because it is an environment filled with love, respect, culture, energy and a lot of hard work,” said Rhaíssa Simões, the beach’s communications director.

1 pm - Have lunch in a favela. Above the beachside neighborhood of Leme are two favelas: Babilônia and Chapéu-Mangueira. Head up there to Bar do David, a bar and restaurant known for its creative cocktails and snacks. The bar’s snacks have been awarded multiple prizes at Rio’s annual food fest, Comida di Buteco. One of the best is ressurgéncia—seafood, white beans, and vegetables served in a purple cabbage bowl.

2:30 pm - Hike up Morro Hill. Many people take the aerial cable car up to Pão de Açúcar, but you can easily hike up to the first hill for free. Trilho do Morro da Urca starts near Praia Vermelha and takes about 20 or 30 minutes to get to the top. There are plenty of monkeys on the trail, but resist the urge to feed them. Once up top, stay for a samba show or live DJs, which usually start their sets on weekends at 2:30 pm.

5 pm - Knock back sunset beers and snacks on the wall. Sunset is great from atop the mountain, but the mureta (bay wall) is a more local affair. Order drinks and snacks like bolinhos de bacalhau (fried codfish balls) from Bar Urca, which has been around since 1939, or Urca Grill, which has a younger clientele.

8 pm - Dance at one of Rio’s hippest new bars. The neighborhood of Gloria is becoming one of Rio’s hippest places thanks, in part, to the new disco and pizza bar Fatchia. Started by a record-collecting DJ, the bar has a chill upstairs lounge and tasty rectangles of Detroit-style pizza. Come early to avoid the inevitable line out the door.

11pm - Samba at Vaca Atolada. Live music is everywhere in Rio, but the roda da samba (samba circle) at this Lapa dive is a spiritual experience. Bathed in harsh white lighting and with activist posters abound, locals sing and dance out of their clothes late into the night.

12 am - Hit the club. If you’re looking for electronic music, D-Edge, a club that originated in São Paulo, is a solid bet.

Copacabana Palace ($$$$)
This isn’t just the most famous hotel in Rio, it might be the most well-known on the continent, and staying here is a treat if you’ve got the cash. First built in 1923, Copacabana Palace helped kick off Rio’s tourism industry and has been renovated over the years to add modern amenities like regal (but not over the top) rooms, a pool and two Michelin-starred restaurants.

Casa Guaiamum ($$$)
Escape the hustle and head west to relax at this vacation home refuge. Facing the Restinga da Marambaia, a 42km-long island, Casa Guaiamum is surrounded by calm rivers and mangroves that you can explore on boat trips (but it’s also very okay to just spend your time relaxing on the dock).

O Veleiro ($$)
Owned by a lovely Canadian-Brazilian couple and located on a quiet street above Botafogo in an historic colonial building, O Veleiro was the first bed and breakfast in Rio when it opened in 1999. It’s a great place to come home to after a busy day exploring. The best part is the backyard, which has a pool and is surrounded by lush Atlantic Forest.

Castelo dos Tucanos ($)
This is an enchanting castle in Santa Teresa that has recently been transformed into one of Rio’s finest hostels. The rooms are clean, there’s a vibey coworking space with stained glass windows and the pool out back is often the site of churrascos (barbecues). If you’re looking for a full-on party hostel, this isn’t it, but it is social and you can actually get some sleep.

The local currency in Rio is Brazilian real R$.

You’ll need Plug Type C and N. 127, or 220V and 60Hz.

December to February is the high season for visitors and also when Rio tends to get the most rain. June to August is winter but temperatures rarely dip below 60°F and usually hover around 80°F.

You’ll be warned to stay away from Rio, especially by Brazilians who don’t live here, but if you take some precautions you’re unlikely to run into safety issues. Avoid taking your phone out of your pocket as much as possible and don’t walk on quiet streets at night. Also, avoid the beach at night and don’t swim if red flags are on the sand.

Much of Copacabana Beach, the beach in Flamengo (Aterro do Flamengo), and the neighborhood of Urca were manmade with landfill procured from eroding mountains and digging tunnels.

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